Better late than never

The last two weeks have been pretty incredible. I have been bad in promising to create a blog called, "Margaret Gets the Worm," but not following through. And then I created the blog, but still didn't fill it with anything. So here goes -- an attempt to squeeze two weeks into one easily-digestible blog post:

*deep breath*

My day in Paris was wonderful. I enjoyed it significantly more than as a 16-year-old, if that's possible, most likely because I was on foot. If I wanted to stop and look at something, I could. If I wanted to keep it moving, I did. If I wanted to walk into the Shangri-La Paris and ask to use their toilet, I walked into the Shangri-La Paris and asked to use their toilet. AND I used their Bvlgari hand lotion. Boo-yah.

As good as the sights and the movies (when it comes out on DVD, watch "Les Emotifs Anonyme" -- totally awesome if you're a sucker for oddball romances), my favorite part was the food. Everything just tasted so real. Real toast. Real coffee. Real duck. I was in heaven.

The only hiccup was -- and this will not surprise anyone who knows me -- the part where I left Paris and accidently packed my wallet and passport in my checked luggage. I didn't realize what I'd done until they'd already been swept away on a conveyer belt. Fortunately -- and this will surprise anyone who knows me -- I'd arrived at the airport nearly three hours ahead of time, so I was able to work with the fine folks at Air France, at multiple counters, to get back my luggage, retrieve my valuables, and recheck my suitcase. And get through security and passport control with time to spare for a bathroom break before my flight.

Bamako has been wonderful so far. The first weekend I took it slow -- brunch at a place called Broadway, opened by a Malian who spent time in the U.S. and fell in love with either IHOP or Denny's (my hosts weren't sure which one). I had dinner with some new friends of friends who I hope to make my friends, where I discovered that I'm not allergic to capitaine, Mali's ever-present fish, even though I think it's related to perch. And it's tasty. The week was spent getting to know folks at work and going to trivia night at the American Club, both places in which I am currently totally useless. But hopefully it'll get better.

Friday, I got to a club to see Baba Salah, who's considered the best guitarist in Mali since Ali Farka Toure died. The music and club were frequented mostly by people from around Gao (the north), so it was interesting to see how while the music is pretty upbeat and fast, the "cool" style of dancing is pretty slow. You kind of move on every other beat. It's gonna take me a long time to get the hang of it.

Saturday, the embassy organized a trip to Siby, a nearby town. The trip through town was fine, but the really spectacular bits were some of the archaeological sites and the amazing Kamadjan natural stone arch. I have loved crossing over the Niger river, but I expected the awesomeness of the river. I was not prepared for the gorgeous hills and stone plateaus so close to Bamako. Somehow I assumed you had to go to Dogon country for dramatic vistas. But, no, they're definitely right here nearby. Even better? You can also get *awesome* fresh donuts at the local market AND shea butter soap at a nearby women's project. Get your hands dirty and then get 'em clean.

That night I went to dinner with another friend of a friend and then to a show at Theatre Blonba (http://www.blonbaculture.com/). The play was pretty incredible. It explored the relationship between Mali's first president, Modibo Keita, and the foot soldier who helped with the coup that removed him from power. It was all in French, which I often found hard to follow. Fortunately, half of it was in Bambara with French subtitles projected on the backdrop (I found the whole presentation really innovative, for what it's worth.). I could read those bits pretty easily and follow along. The reading of the francais is still significantly easier than the verbal francais. Ah well.

Monday, which we had off for Martin Luther King Day, I went to the National Park, which is GORGEOUS, though unfortunately the national museum was closed. Instead I walked around town, visited the cathedral, bought some newspapers and ate some plantains. Then I caught a soccer game -- Real Bamako vs. CSD. I sat with the Real fans on the condition that I root for their team. I don't want to take back my word, but most of my Malian coworkers are lobbying hard for me to switch loyalties and root for Stade de Bamako. They say it's a fluke that Real is my team and think I should reconsider. I don't know. The drums were pretty awesome at the Real game. And I think I can get my very own jersey.

Thursday and Friday were also off, but this time for Malian holidays (it's been a very short week.). I spent Friday afternoon getting an awesome Vietnamese lunch with a friend and then checking out a few craft and home decor stores. There's one place -- Mali Chic (http://www.malichic.net/) -- that has this awesome design combination of African style made modern. I pretty much wanted everything in the store. I decided I need to pace myself, but I'll definitely be back.

Then I finished off the night with an AMAZING concert at the French Cultural Center -- Ballake Sissoko and Vincent Segal, playing kora and cello respectively. It was a great night with a really appreciative audience that responded to the awesomeness that the musicians were bringing. The highlight was when blind French musician Jean-Philippe Rykiel, who plays an electronic keyboard-mouth-organ-thing, blew everyone away with the addition of his sound to the other two. I'm not a music writer. I can't adequately describe how great it was. But let's just say the crowd brought them out again and again and probably would have kept insisting had the theater folks not brought the lights up.

In any case, there's lots that I've left out of the first two weeks. I think I'm starting to make friends. I've made new friends. I'm getting to know my way around my new city. I've accidently said, "I'm dead," instead of "I'm done," when finishing my lunch. But I'm trying to stay busy for two reasons. First, I wanna get out and see the city, experience things firsthand and enjoy myself. But, second, I really miss you guys. Things here are a blast, but I wish I could share them with you. It would make it all that much more fun.

My car comes in 3-4 months, and after that I am your personal tour guide. Don't be a stranger!